Duke's

When a good burger is what you really want

I’m not much of a red meat eater but the one thing I do occasionally crave is a juicy burger. Back in the late 1980s, the best antidote for my cravings could be found at Babe’s, a dive bar in Tenleytown that eventually morphed into a slightly more upscale pool hall before disappearing altogether. When my kids were little, our family “go to”for burgers was Chadwick’s in Friendship Heights, which worked like a charm until sportscaster Tony Kornheiser took over, ruining it before going out of business.

Once the pandemic waned and we started going out to eat again, my quest for a good burger renewed. I checked out what the Washington Post had to say and while I trust the food team there, I’m not going to Vienna or Leesburg or Gaithersburg for a burger. Good for you if you live there but not for me. (And please, stop it with the recommendations for Unconventional Diner which has disappointed me on so many levels.) I tried the one at Le Diplomate; it lived up to its billing but always seemed like the wrong choice relative to the proper French selections on the menu. Other places I visited offered burgers that were dry or soggy or just too damn big. I mean, a 1/2 of a pound of beef? Come on.

But there is one burger that definitely satisfies: the so-called proper burger at Duke’s Grocery. It’s kind of a mess so don’t wear anything fancy when you go and have a stack of paper napkins at the ready. As described on the menu, the proper burger consists of two thin beef patties (they’ll sub with Impossible Burger if that’s your thing), melted gouda, pickles, charred red onion, sweet chili, rocket, and garlic aioli on a brioche. Order a side of fries to share with your dining partner — they come in a little cast iron skillet and are always piping hot. Are you hungry yet? I am.

Duke’s has several locations around town. I’m partial to the counter on Connecticut Avenue across the National Zoo, but you can also find the burger at their place on 17th Street east of Dupont Circle, on Pennsylvania Avenue in Foggy Bottom, and Navy Yard. And if a burger is not your jam, there are plenty of other options on the menu (including those catering to vegetarians). While I can’t vouch for these, many do sound tempting. Just not as tempting as that burger.